Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. The distributor was loose. I will let you know what the results are. I keep doing that with the same result. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. He has walked me through every question Iv. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Enjoy your Sniper! Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. Ok, so I'm stumped! Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? A problem since day 1 - YouTube Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. It would be possible to set up a 1D or 2D table and do something like this, so if you've gotten into these advanced setups then that would be another thing to check.If neither of these work then I'd recommend that you do a data log of the engine idling as the temperature is reaching and then exceeding 200 degrees. Try it! Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Any ideas here? Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. It does this with the engine off. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. Take it a step at a time. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. Please let us know how this works out for you! That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. check out the. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. What an amazing site you have here. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black - amazon.com I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. any advise would be appreciated. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. Why is this? If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! Good luck! The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). Laptop Access I'm happy to walk you through what is required. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. The throttle position should be zero. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Are these compatible enough? Then your low idle problem will go away. when things aren't working and this provides just that. Without it you are working in the dark. Also, I was seriously rich at idleso rich it hurt your eyes. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. back to trying to zero down an idle. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. Am I missing something. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Capability Range: Advanced In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Holley Motor Life If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. It's all part of the adventure! So the issue Im having is low idle. to. While you have over 200 miles on the system, you must realize that in the part of the map where the ECU finds itself during lanches you might only have a total of 5-10 seconds in any given cell. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. :-). First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? However, I have never found that to be the case. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. :-). :-). When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. Duty Cycle% = 3 In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Thanks for all your help Chris! It didnt do this with the carb on it. I did read some comments on regulator issues is there a way to check it for an issue ? Thanks for the info Chris. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. idle counts from 0. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. EFI Troubleshooting EFIand and EFI Tuning Tips - In The Garage Media Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Okay, try my method. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Holley EFI 543-105 Idle Air Control Motor This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. Hello Chris. Definitely would have went with you guys. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an Some have suggested the gasket might cause it but I've never heard of anyone fixing the whistle by adjusting the gasket (and many have tried. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. No air should be able to pass. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. MSD pro billet and 6AL box I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. Um, no. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. The learn percentage should gradually decrease to virtually nothing as the map plus learn table begin to get more and more accurate to your specific setup. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. I'm new to EFI and have no idea what to try next. Don't try to correct for the fuel. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. I'd really appreciate some help. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and % = 49 Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. That is the IAC hold position. The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. :-). Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. Interesting situation you have. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. itself out and hold idleeventually stalling. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. Engine Startup Tuning for Sniper and Terminator X Stealth Owners The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. Hey Chris! Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. I guess we can't have everything. 1. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. If they are closed, check the primaries. That is the only way to fly. Tuning Your Sniper EFI System for Progressive Secondary Link Use Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. The idle is 1350-1400 with the idle screw at initial contact. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Is this an issue to worry about? After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Holley Sniper IAC | Chevy Nova Forum Holley Pro-Jection TBI Replacement Parts - JEGS )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Generally, one of two things: a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Thanks! But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Any idea's? The small rubber plug had a leak. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. You might have a bad IAC, but you can also have a bad vacuum pod on the transmission. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. You could go either way.. If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. It's called tuning. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Holley Sniper EFI 550-552 Holley Sniper EFI Autolite 1100 - Gold As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Capability Range: Professional If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. i would have been happy to answer there. I think that your timing is too retarded.
Choose One International Religious Organization, Articles H
Choose One International Religious Organization, Articles H